On a trip to Sandakphu, the highest point in West Bengal, it is a view of the mighty Kanchenjunga, resplendent in the myriad shades of red of the rising or the setting sun that makes it worth it. The third highest mountain in the world, it is also referred to as ‘The Sleeping Buddha’ by the locals, as a close inspection will reveal that it looks like a man lying on his back, with his head, tummy and feet. What’s more, this is perhaps the only place in the world from where you will enjoy a 360 degree view of four of the five highest peaks on earth, including Mt. Everest. In trekking parlance, the trek was an easy one. Almost the entire trail up to Sandakphu is on motorable roads, so it is not very tough, though it is steep, particularly towards the last leg of about 4 kilometres.
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When I had set off on this trek, I was told that I could have opted for a ride on one of the many vintage World War II Land Rovers from Manebhanjan in four hours. There was also the possibility to part trek and part ride up. Being a trekker, the motorized ride was out of question, not to forget the unruly ride which is bumpy and a guarantee for bad back. The entire trek of 55 kilometres can be done in five days; add one more day if you intend to include Phalut in your itinerary. The entire route runs through the Singalila National Park, and dotted with bamboo, oak, magnolia, hemlock silver fir trees and other sub-alpine vegetation, while in spring, a flame of blooming rhododendrons set fire to the hills. Considering the buzzing life in Kolkata, this was a welcome break that I had been planning for, for a while. Sandakphu is also a bird lover’s paradise and I recommend that you pack your binoculars to catch a glimpse of a common Yellow-billed Blue Magpie or a Blood Pheasant and, many others, if you are lucky to spot them. Of sleepy hamlets and log huts: Unlike my other trekking escapades, this was a near 5-star trip.
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I did not sleep in tents, or, carry sleeping bags. Instead, I snuggled under warm blankets in log huts, which are surprisingly warm, given the temperature and the howling winds outside. The food was good, though basic with roti, rice, dal, and sabji, cooked by smiling hosts, who certainly knew how to treat their guests well. The trek was the high point, but there’s a lot more I was able to do while on this trip. Tasting the juicy, succulent, melt-in-your-mouth momos at the cafes on the way, teamed with hot coffee, it was a must needed break from the routine life with work and chores taking over everything else.
The evenings were completely different and something to look forward to. Grouped around a coal fire or a solitary oil lamp in neighbouring shacks, we kept busy gorging on pakodas, boiled eggs or the slightly fibery, but extremely tasty yak meat. For stargazers, venturing out in the cold and biting winds in the late evening can offer a clear view of the skies with its countless stars and constellations. And then there are the sights of the peaks, especially during sunrise and sunset. The peaks seem to grow closer as you climb higher. Naturally, the view from Sandakphu
takes the cake. For most of us who will not climb mountains, this is the closest we can get to the world’s highest peaks. The sight of the towering peaks rising above the clouds is something that words can never describe justifiably. As you enter the Singalila National Park, the following slogan greeted us; “Leave nothing but the footprints, take nothing but the memories.” And that’s exactly what I did and suggest you too do when you plan a trek to the wonderful Sandakphu, one of the coolest trekking destinations on earth. It’s one of the easiest to do and also fits well into your budget.
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