Pakistanis reached until here during the 1965 war,” says a local waving his arm around. “The border is just about 4 km away.” This close to the India-Pakistan border in Punjab’s Fazilka district, boundaries get fuzzy. Farmers cross into no-man’s land to tend their fields, with passes issued by the Border Security Force, and tall tales of war and opium smuggling are dusted off for the entertainment of any newcomer. But soon enough, the conversation shifts to debt and farmer suicides.
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